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SPECIALTY / SPIRAL PERM
A spiral perm can be wrapped with long rods or “loop rods” and is wrapped at an angle, creating a “springier” curl pattern.
AVERAGE COST OF SERVICE: $75-$125
TOOLS YOU’LL NEED:
Towels $10
Rat tail comb $1.29
Hair clips $5
Perm rods $15-$20
Perm solution (Alkaline / Acid) $7
Coil of cotton $5
Gloves $8
Plastic hair cap included with perm
Diffuser $5
SPECIALTY / SPIRAL PERM WRAP
A Spiral Perm Wrap is a 4 section wrap where all base sections are square, the same length and width as the end of the perm rod. The first thing to consider hair type and condition of your clients hair. That will determine whether you use an Alkaline or Acid perm.
Alkaline
Coarse hair, hair that is thick or resistant to process, normal virgin hair.
Acid
Fine textured hair, damaged hair, chemically treated hair.
Once you’ve decided which perm is the best fit, consult with her on a desired result - then choose rod size. The smaller the rod, the tighter the curl.
Shampoo hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove any excess oil or minerals. Rinse shampoo and DO NOT CONDITION. Remove tangles with a wide toothed comb or wet brush.
Starting in back at the hairline, create a horizontal section with your rat tail comb the same width as the rod you are working with.
Create square subsections the same size as the end of your perm rod. Hold section with tension and comb out with your rat tail comb.
Apply end papers to the middle of section then place your fingers on either side of the end paper in a “cutting” motion, sliding the paper with your fingers to the end of the section. Once the end paper GOES PAST the ends, about ¼ inch, apply the rod. You can slide the end paper to make sure the very end of the hair is perfectly curled around the perm rod - roll and finish by creating a “rainbow” shape to secure the loop rod.
Continue working your way up the head maintaining the pattern of the first row until all is wrapped.
Protect your clients skin - use petroleum jelly around the hairline, applying to forehead, ears and beneath hairline. Wrap a towel around her shoulders and remember the importance of protecting your client. Change wet towels often to keep her comfortable and prevents skin irritation.
Open perm solution. Hand your client a towel to hold in case solution drips. Hold solution in one hand and a towel in other, applying solution to every rod - then apply perm cap.
Check half way through timer + every 5 minutes after. When you see an “S” the perm is ready.
Rinse for 5 minutes.
Towel blot each rod with towels, then paper towels until moisture is removed. 5 minutes.
Apply cotton to hairline + apply waving solution.
Rinse 5 minutes + condition with a detangler.
Style with a diffuser.
Educate your client, advising no washing / water for 48-72 hours.